Choosing the Best Survival Chainsaw

Sabercut Saw

Choosing wood cutting tools for your survival gear can be complicated because of weight. Axes, hatchets, and saws can be heavy and cumbersome. A much lighter option is a flexible saw.

A flexible saw, or survival chainsaw, is a chainsaw-type blade strung between two handles.  They all weigh in at 5 or 6 o.z. At that weight I can’t think why you wouldn’t want one in your survival gear.

Besides weight, it is pretty amazing how effective these things can be with very little effort. (See the video below) You just wrap it around a tree or piece of wood and slide back and forth.

After poking around online for a while I found there are 3 different saws that seem to be the most popular. The Unbelievable Saw, The Pocket Chainsaw, and The SaberCut saw

After looking at all three and reading customer reviews I think the SaberCut Saw is probably the best choice for a couple of reasons.

Loop Handles

It has loops instead of handles. Obviously your hands are going to get tired using this thing for long periods of time. Being able to put those around your wrists and pull with your arms instead of holding on with your fingers is going to be a huge advantage.

Also check out how the SaberCut connects to the blade and loops with metal clips and both the others use little pieces of nylon.

The SaberCut

The SaberCut

Unbelievable Saw

Unbelievable Saw

Pocket Chainsaw

Pocket Chainsaw

Chainsaw Blade

The SaberCut has a more traditional chainsaw blade that is stronger and can be sharpened with a chainsaw sharpening kit, whereas the others have saw tooth blades that will become dull faster and are harder to sharpen because there are so many. (Incidentally, who knew you could buy a chainsaw sharpening kit for your Dremel – Awesome)

The SaberCut is an actual chain, the other two are flat pieces of metal stamped together.

The SaberCut Saw

The SaberCut

Unbelievable Saw

Unbelievable Saw

Pocket Chainsaw

Pocket Pocket Chainsaw

Pouch

The SaberCut saw comes with a pouch for easy carrying. The Pocket Chainsaw comes in a metal tin, and the Unbelievable Saw comes in a ziplock bag. (unbelievable). We are survivalists and every piece of gear needs a pouch. Period.

SaberCut Saw

The SaberCut

Unbelievable Saw

Unbelievable Saw

Pocket Chainsaw

Pocket Chainsaw

Specs

Here’s the quick specs on the SaberCut:

Material: Blade & handle clips: Black oxide coated steel
Weight: (saw and case): 6 ounces (170.1g)
Blade Length: 24 inches

You can get the SaberCut @ Forge Survival Supply for 29.95.

Video

Here is a short video of the SaberCut Saw in action. It is really a commercial from the company, but you still get to see it.

Check out our Survival Store – Forge Survival Supply

{ 75 comments… read them below or add one }

Suburban Survivalist April 15, 2010 at 7:06 pm

Like everything else, it depends. Generally I say tent, but I carry a tarp or plastic drop cloth for under the tent as well. If you're going to be someplace w/o insects or blowing rain/cold wind, a tarp would probably be fine. But I find a one-man tent pretty light and more effective across most situations. Plus the tent can stand alone where there are no trees. These are pretty good;
http://trestlebros.ecrater.com//product.php?pid=6…

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Josh May 30, 2010 at 4:45 pm

That is something you should experiment with, come back and let us know how it works.

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caine30 May 31, 2010 at 6:38 am

i am going to i have a buddy that is a metal smith so i can use his tools i think that will make it better lol i will let you know

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Lucas_SurvCache June 2, 2010 at 6:36 am

Caine,

Good point. I did a little more digging and here's what I've come up with:

1- You have to find a secure way to attach the straps to the blade. Since you have access to a metal shop that might not be very difficult. For other it might be.

2 – It comes with a carry pouch. Really not a big deal, but still.

3. Finally, and really the only good reason, from the Ultimate Survival Technologies website:

"Unlike a standard chain saw blade which only cuts in one direction, the patented SaberCut™ blade cuts in both directions resulting in more efficient and less strenuous cutting. In addition, the cutting teeth are self-cleaning and require little maintenance beyond standard care and occasional sharpening. When sharpening is needed, you can use a standard chain saw blade sharpener (1/8")."

So really the one sided blade is the biggest drawn back.

But like Josh mentioned if you decided to do it be sure to let us know.

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caine30 June 2, 2010 at 11:36 am

in response to number one: if you look at a chain it is not that hard as long as you have a punch and a drill.

number two: another thing that the compass pouch is good for lol.

number three: you can always use the chain saw file and sharpen the back side of the regular blade i am doing some experimenting with them now I figured out the handle and the pouch but still need to work on the double edge a little
other than that once i have my own i will send you and josh the pics of it.

Tim August 3, 2010 at 3:38 pm

I see that no one has answered this Question. The saws in question work in both directions, a chainsaw chain will only cut in one direction.

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Tim August 3, 2010 at 3:39 pm

never mind, i didn't read all the comments……….

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Seth wahle June 11, 2011 at 11:09 pm

Yes it’s really easy but time consuming all you need to do is take and switch every other tooth the other way arround so it cuts when you pull it each direction I did this and braided some paracord loops for handles and now I have the exact same thing as here’s but I have 20 feet of extra paracord in the handles that I could easily remove and just attach about 8 inches of it on each Side to get the job done but it’s much move comfortable with the wide braided handles I made for it

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Montezuma1775 April 19, 2010 at 3:00 pm

Amazing timing on this article… I just purchased my first shotty today… I got a Mossberg 590 SP… It is tactical, but I plan on getting another barrel for hunting when I get a couple more coins together. I agree that if you have nothing else, you need a decent shotgun… versatility is the key… you can do alot of different things with one. Nobody is going to want to carry around a full arsenal WTSHTF.

This is basically what I got… I couldn't find a link on Mossberghttp://www.impactguns.com/store/015813516631.html

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mike June 18, 2010 at 6:27 am

A big disadvantage, or safety issue is that you are now "tied" to what you are cutting. I would hate to be engrossed in cutting wood in this way and someone suddenly come up on me. With your wrists in the straps you are already tied up. Also, if something falls out of the tree, you cannot run. Having a team mate providing security and checking for "widow makers" is a good idea when using the "Saber Cut". Be able to roll your own and repair your own gear is always a big plus. However, the price is about what a chain saw would run anyway. I am picking one up….

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Lucas_SurvCache June 18, 2010 at 6:03 pm

mike,

that's something I hadn't even thought about, but a very good point.

I think having a team mate with you at all times, not just when using this saw, if probably a good idea.

When you get yours let us know how it works for you

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David August 3, 2010 at 6:33 pm

if you dont want to be attached what you can do is just take two pieces of wood and slip them in the handles, then if something happens just let go of the handles

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Blindgibbon June 24, 2010 at 9:16 am

Um, use a an ax, or a machete. Faster, cheaper and more reliable. Axes are multi-taskers, no uni-taskers for me!

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Lucas_SurvCache June 25, 2010 at 7:50 am

Blindgibbon,

I've chopped larger firewood with an axe and it's not exactly fun or fast.

If you are having a long term fire (i.e. more than a day) you're going to need a good amount of wood.

I would much rather section the wood with a pocket chainsaw like this than an axe.

I'd say they both have their uses in your survival tool kit, and as small and compact as the chainsaw is I don't see a reason not to take it if you can.

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Blindgibbon June 25, 2010 at 1:42 pm

Survival is a calorie game, you want to take in more calories then you use, and these saws just burn way more calories than an axe, and they can break, dull and bind up. They are simply less efficient than an axe.

I will say that there is one reason I can think of why one of these things would be useful and that is for concealement and stealth, they probabl make less noise than an axe.

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Josh July 15, 2010 at 8:24 pm

The thing you are forgetting is portability. While you certainly can strap an axe to your pack, its a lot easier to just stick one of these little saws in your pocket or in your pack, that and these saws weigh a whole lot less. Take your pick…

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Joe August 3, 2010 at 1:02 am

I, and several outdoor organiations disagree with you. "Although the axe is a traditional wood working tool, saws are usually recommended for trail work because they are safer and generally more efficient." from http://www.americantrails.org/resources/info/tool…

An Axe also requires more energy just to carry. So, an axe is less efficient, more dangerous and causes more calories to be burned even when you aren't using it. Saw 3, axe 0.

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sock puppet September 23, 2010 at 5:39 pm

If you're just cutting with muscle power, the calories would be the same. If I remember my college physics class (and I was never that good at it anyway), it tells us that it takes the same amount of energy to bring it down. It's just like running a mile vs walking a mile. They both burn the same number of calories. But I do agree that I'd rather have the ax. Something about the pocket chainsaw looks like it wouldn't hold up over the long-haul. Although, I would much rather carry 6 ounces instead of 20 pounds depending on the conditions I'm expecting to be under.

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Aleks November 11, 2010 at 1:35 am

You're forgetting one component: kinetic energy.

When you start from rest, Potential energy is converted to kinetic energy and work energy (given off as heat).

Kinetic energy = 1/2 mv^2, where v= velocity and m = mass. The faster you run, the more energy you need. That's why fish don't swim fast unless they need to.

It would be interesting to calculate the expended energy required in swinging an axe (pendulum) vs pulling a chain. I'll get back to you on that =)

Joe January 12, 2012 at 2:26 pm

But you aren’t just cutting with muscle power. A saw has a friction element that an axe does not have. It is also in continuous contact with the wood and spends more time cutting. An axe spends a third to a quarter ot its time either being pulled from the cut or being swung to make the cut. When it does cut it takes out large chips of wood compaired to the saw. The larger the axe the more energy expended to swing but the deeper the cut made.
Skill also plays a big role in using an axe. I have seen people that could fell a tree in 10 to 15 swings and other people that took an hour to fell an equally sized tree.
It really is more than just cutting with muscle power.

polly August 3, 2010 at 9:22 pm

you cut a med thick (fat) tree and as the fire burns what is in the fire pit you push the 'log' on in a bit more. We have done this often….. no ned to cut every PIECE you burn to fire pit length.

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p. gonzales July 8, 2010 at 5:37 am

The best survival book you can get is the Boy Scout Manual. Period.

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Lucas_SurvCache July 9, 2010 at 10:44 pm

I have had my copy for about 12-13 years now and it has never failed me.

However, it is a book that covers a lot of topics and can only give limited information on each subject.

If you need more detail you'll need a dedicated book.

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Joe August 3, 2010 at 2:35 am

The Scout Field Book is even better imo.

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d.m.orvis August 29, 2010 at 3:19 pm

nahhhhh.. the scouts are strait but you gotta go with a civil air patrol field manual.

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brandon July 12, 2010 at 12:02 am

it seems like for fire wood purpouses you could use a sturdy knife with a good club and cut down smaller trees easier, the only thing i think you need an axe or chainsaw for would be building a long term log cabin

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Josh July 15, 2010 at 8:20 pm

You can certainly fell and split small trees with a knife, but if you have ever had to do it for a long time as in keeping a fire going all day, an axe sure makes things a lot nicer.

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AndyCee August 9, 2010 at 5:01 pm

The biggest potential issue I see, and which has already been touched on, is the fact that you are tethered to the tree which you are attempting to fall. If you have your hands in those loops, especially with gloves on, you may not be able to move quick enough if the tree decides to fall your way. I like the idea of using sticks to create quick release handles. In any case…I think one of these will be finding its way into my pack soon.

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RudeBoy_UrbSurv August 12, 2010 at 9:55 pm

I have the Pocket Chainsaw and its awesome. It works fast, its flexible, and packs small. Not to mention the fact that the can protects it from weather. Ive used this saw for a long time and havent had it dull on me. I just oil it and put it in the can. Small sticks through the rings work well as handles. I dont think Id bother with loops.

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Rooster October 25, 2010 at 9:56 pm

One word: Sawvivor

Lightweight, folds up nicely (spare blades store in the handle… NOT ripping up your pack) and it *really* cuts.

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rdnkrfnk October 30, 2010 at 12:36 pm

these saws are dangerous for cutting standing timber as you are standing in the direction of the falling tree i would however make one out of one of my chainsaw chains for cutting already fallen logs or branches

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Doc November 19, 2010 at 11:42 pm

There is also a "high reach" chain saw that is a little longer saw blade on ropes. You can use it to cut high branches, too. Works from up close to 20 feet in the air.

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obee508 November 30, 2010 at 4:32 pm

you would never cut a tree down with one of these, thats insane, even a small tree is too much. they're not for felling. they're for bucking up timber on the ground, branches, and self defense. if you drop a tree on yourself with one of these…well a guy named darwin will be waiting to have a talk about physics with you just inside the pearly gates. learn to use an axe. also the difference between short and long term survival tactics.

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Old Scout December 4, 2010 at 2:32 pm

As far as a need for one, as Mr. brandon says, you might want to add a cache or a bunker to your cabin list. But I agree with Mr. Andy and I'm glad that some one brought it up, though he wasn't the only one. Cutting timber with my chainsaw I have seen some trees do some weird shit, as Mr. Cain can probably attest to, and I would not want my hands caught in those straps when I am in a hurry to unass the area that the falling tree is trying to occupy. I would opt for falling the tree with my double-bit and then using this saw to cut the flat edged cuts that I might need for construction purposes. And I am with Mr. Cain on his first comment; why can't I just make these out of my own chain saw stock, which I buy in a bulk roll. Scouts Out

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Chefbear58 December 4, 2010 at 11:59 pm

I have used the pocket and Unbelievable saws… both with disappointing results. Maybe I just don't know my own strength (not to sound cocky) or maybe they are just junk! The pocket chainsaw lasted about 3 pulls and the handle broke off, the Unbelievable saw lived up to its name cause I couldn't believe that it broke in half on the second thick limb I was trying to cut with it!

Haven't tried the Sabercut, and I am somewhat reluctant to after the others. However I might have to give it a shot after reading this article. Where were you a coule years go when I wasted all that money on that garbage!!!

Keep up the good work!

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jerry January 29, 2011 at 12:34 pm

for long term survival, you definitely don't want an ax, unless you live next to a hospital.

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craig the tree guy February 20, 2011 at 5:25 pm

i agree With GettingReady,these small saws are ideal for downed wood.i do tree work for a living and i would never use one of these saws for felling trees,it very very dangerous,ive seen trees do funny things in my 18 years of tree work.the only thing i would use in a survival situation is an axe or a crosscut saw.also like GettingReady stated if you are going to fell a tree it is a good idea to have a couple of wedges for directinal felling also if you use one of thse saws to buck up wood on the ground a wedge will keep the saw from being pinched,an two wedges are better than one REMEMBER= TWO IS ONE ONE IS NONE

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Seth wahle June 11, 2011 at 11:27 pm

For felling large trees to maintain a fire I like to use fire just use my hip knife to burr up the side then light the tree on fire and use my knife to scrape the embers once in a while it take a bit to learn how to just let it do it’s thing but you can burn strait through a large tree with minimal effort I normally work on this for a couple hours while doing other stuff like cooking and eating you can tension the tree to a nearby tree with some paracord to speed it up but In a game of calories letting the tree burn it’s self down a d using my pocket chainsaw to break in down to logs is ideal to me

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ivan_smirnov June 19, 2011 at 1:39 pm

Amen, brother. Even when you cut the perfect notch, if you hook a branch in the canopy, or have unbalanced growth you might find yourself on the wrong end of the stump. Remember, the most dangerous jobs are farmer, logger, fisherman, and miner. But you probably already know it.

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T.Rapier February 23, 2011 at 12:42 pm

At first I was thinking of a hand ax ( metal handle ) . But after reading several reviews on the hand chain saws , and how well they can work , I think I will get one and replace the ax with a machete instead . Lot less weight .

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tyler June 5, 2011 at 2:34 pm

look on budk.com for the black survival knife, it cost $15.00. it comes with a small surivial kit in the handle, a slingshot in the sheath, a harpoon, mirror, a whistle. the bade is 10 inch, with a 5 inch handle, its tang comes to about 2 inch in to the handle. i do not like the blade but for small work it would do but i would consider a kurki machete for the heavy duty work. it also has a wire saw,wire cutter, and a compass, i do not recommend using the compass however. it also comes with a 1inch pencil but no paper and a band-aid, and a small fishing kit.

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ivan_smirnov June 19, 2011 at 1:14 pm

The first thig I was taught when felling trees was to make sure I had an escape route. If the fall goes wrong, like when there's a hang up, or the butt kicks out, you want to be well out of the way, not tied to the stump. Just saying…

Now for cutting wood that's already down, well, that's a whole 'nother story.

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ivan_smirnov June 19, 2011 at 1:25 pm

The tree only falls away from you only if the top is in the clear and you've cut a proper relief notch. Otherwise where she lands, nobody knows.

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bob July 21, 2011 at 8:34 pm

for any sawing i use my super mach. its a saw and machete in one matrix . heavy duty and weighs 2.5 lbs .. cuts using a cross cut pattern M M M M and it can cut trees 2 feet in diameter

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Marty August 1, 2011 at 5:20 pm

If I was using one to fell a tree, I'd use 20-30 feet of 550 paracord and stand waaaay back.

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red rooster August 21, 2011 at 7:41 pm

my father build one similiar using paracord and an old chain saw chain to cut high branches off of oak trees in our yard about 25 years ago and i wanted to take down a branch off of a black walnut in my home earlier this summer and remembered that he made one. so i bought a chain from harbour frieght while i was in there and made one in about half an hour and it worked great !!! thanks for the lessons PoP

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Grantmeliberty September 4, 2011 at 12:33 pm

My first thought was I don't want to be attached to the tree, although I would recommend this saw to all the tree-huggers out there!!
I have had a pocket chainsaw for about 15 years, and have used it some, with great success. On one occasion I cleared a large ~6 inch or so branch from a pine tree which was about 20 feet up, by throwing a line over the branch, and tying into the pocket saw. I have never seen any problems with strength, unless there was a kink or twist which could pop a rivet somehow. The rivets work perfectly well on a standard chainsaw without failing, don't see much difference.
Given that this saw is bi-directional, they have disassembled a standard chainsaw blade, and alternated the cutter teeth, which beans breaking and re-riveting the old chain multiple times.
As far as dissing the pocket chainsaw because it comes in a tin instead of a pouch, give me a break, the tin keeps the sharp teeth safely, and I can easily put the tin in a pocket of a fanny pack, which I do anyway. I wear out nylon pouches which I wear on my belt, and that tin is still going strong.

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Dave September 25, 2011 at 3:58 pm

People survied for centuries with only an axe.

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Steven1381 October 24, 2011 at 8:53 pm

I'm not lazy by any stretch of the imagination, but what about a small battery powered chain saw. I know that this is about a pocket saw, but if I am bugging-in somewhere I would want a cordless 16" chain saw (oregon has one and it doesn't do to bad) I know it's expensive and you would also have to buy a solar panel or some other means of recharging the battery, but I think for the time and man power it would save (both things that will most likely be sorely needed) it could make a huge difference. I do admit that I tend to be more of a high tech survivalist.

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Mike January 5, 2012 at 5:50 pm

In the words of a smart man in my life "better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it " he was speaking of firearms but it goes for most everything

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its_exit January 5, 2012 at 8:55 pm

If you really want a saw that is portable you'd be better off with a Sven Saw. $28.00 on Amazon.

You don't have to worry about the tree falling on you and its probably a lot less likely to break.

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SHAWN C January 15, 2012 at 2:33 pm

HOW ABOUT WE LOOK WHERE THEY ARE MADE.THATS ONE OF THE REASON WE ARE THE SHAPE WERE IN,YOU RECOMMENDED A PRODUCT FROM COMMUNIST CHINA INSTEAD OF THE U.S.A..HELP SUPPORT YOUR FAMILY,FRIENDS AND COUNTRY BUY AMERICAN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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XDm March 11, 2012 at 7:08 am

Don't think anyone has mentioned this:

The reason this little gem is in my BoB is that in wet weather (which we have plenty of where I'm from), dry tinder can become scarce. Pop quiz- What in nature flames up better than anything else? SAWDUST! When cutting wood for a fire, you'd create a ton of this to start the thing. I'd call that multi tasking in the best way, making this a superior tool and conserving calories at the same time.

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Casper March 13, 2012 at 10:23 pm

A folding "buck" saw cuts better, is more safe, packs better, and is less work.

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Mike October 28, 2012 at 1:30 pm

Hey Guys,
Just wanted to throw in my 2 cents.
I bought the Pocket ChainSaw from thinkgeek:
https://www.thinkgeek.com/product/ea93/
And found it to be complete crap. After about 20 minutes of use, the saw started to bend and get stuck. When trying to bend it back you are left with a bunch of crooked teeth which get stuck in the wood. Seeing that SaberCut is an actual chain, i plan to buy that as my next camping saw.

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Loose_Lou November 22, 2012 at 12:54 pm

Imagine using this as a garrote…. only way i could describe would be messy…

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Justified308 December 30, 2012 at 9:52 pm

I have used the Pocket Chainsaw and loved it. Very easy to use and cuts quick.
The thinner blade means you are cutting less wood to do the same job.

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@CNYGunOweners February 6, 2013 at 4:54 am

Hello All,

I use the SaberCut on almost every outing. The one thing I can say about this tool, is it WILL wear you out fast if you think you are going to go in there and cut up enough firewood in one session!

Try to carry a small can of wd40 or some kind of lubricant, you'll thank yourself later.

Always try to saw up trees/branches that are already down.

Skip logs that are bigger round than your leg. (unless you need something that big?)

Hydrate Hydrate Hydrate

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shadow February 25, 2013 at 3:32 am

Now I'm from northern wisconsin, and I've NEVER needed to fell a tree for firewood even in winter. My standard carry for woodcutting is a CS pipehawk and a 12" bowsaw for most of the year, changing the hawk out for a 3/4 axe in the winter. The advantage of the bowsaw is proven reliablity and they're very efficient at cutting wood. Also, the 12" versions are small enough to fit in most packs (use a bladecover) and at the 12" size they also can use a standard hacksaw blade, thus allowing you to cut through metal as well as wood. It's a simple CHEAP tool that won't break like most of the flexible saws are so notorious for and easy to carry spare blades.

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Steve July 27, 2013 at 10:06 am

The smart way to use this to fell trees is exactly like you would fell a tree with a Chainsaw.
1. Decide which way the tree is leaning.
2. Take a V chunk out on that side, that goes about a third into the tree.
3. Have a clear escape route, trees bounce.
4. Cut the back, aka safe side until tree falls, and then haul ass when you hear the cracking.
But you say, you can't make straight cuts with these!

Yes you can I say, simply make the blade into a Bow saw with a bent piece of wood so you can do straight cuts.

So, when camping you'll just buck up fallen wood, the loose chain works fine. In survival when you need to fell trees, make a bow saw.

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Zack_M September 9, 2013 at 8:28 pm

Pocket chainsaws have been seen useful for cutting larger pieces of wood, but they don't seem to applicable for long term or heavy use as maybe seen in a survival situation. I would still recommend also carrying a camp axe or heavy duty khukri for chopping. (I prefer camp axe for the good ole BOB)

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Roger January 4, 2014 at 12:24 am

I carry a Kabar kurki machete in my survival vest/backpack, weapon and tool and sometimes a pocket chainsaw as a lightweight back-up (things get lost). I would only carry a axe if making or planning on making a log cabin or other large structure (multi-person). I don't usually cut anything thicker than 5-6 inches in diameter, no need to! Usually there is enough dead wood laying around for firewood, though logs directly on the ground can be damp from absorbing ground moisture. As for the video on the Sabercut saw, do you really want to cut a tree down at chest height? Cutting that tree at near ground level (if you're not wanting to stick out like a sore thumb) would be much harder on your back and knees! Also, making a feather stick is a much better choice for fire starting, saw dust really doesn't catch fire very easily!

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Roger February 4, 2014 at 10:01 am

Forgot to mention, as a alternate cutting devise I sometimes carry a "Buck" saw, 14 inch long, good flexible steel, rubber-coated T-handle with fine teeth along one edge and course teeth along the other, with leather sheath and belt loop. The main advantage of this saw is one-handed operation, allowing you to use your other hand/arm to hold the wood you're cutting or hold onto a tree trunk if you've had to climb into a tree to harvest wood! Also, the T-handle is less fatiguing to your hand to use, virtually non-slip even when wet; and of course, you can alternate hands! The courser blade edge works well on limbs/branches, but is a little small/lightweight to cut down trees efficiently. The finer blade edge works well on wood products like plywood or particle board, even sheet rock. The saw and sheath together weigh about 12 ounces and the teeth stay sharp for a long time!

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Josh June 2, 2010 at 5:03 pm

Thanks, we are looking forward to it.

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Nurseryman75 January 19, 2011 at 11:17 am

I'm not familiar with that one, but have had lots of experience with Felco saws. They are the easiest cutting saw blades I have ever worked with. They make both folding and fixed blade saws.

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Krevok February 22, 2011 at 12:59 pm

I believe you are thinking of Isaac Newton. Darwin was a biologist.

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ivan_smirnov June 19, 2011 at 1:30 pm

Now, now. Let's not be too hasty. When in need, and all that.

However, these saws wouldn't be my first choice, or even my second.

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ivan_smirnov June 19, 2011 at 1:16 pm

Amen, brother. But you'd have to move damn quick. Falling objects travel 16 feet in the first second. How good are your reflexes?

One bad drop and your ribs are staved in, or your head is retooled. But these saws are probably okay for cutting downed timber.

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VMX September 24, 2011 at 5:36 pm

I also noticed that as soon as he locked it around his wrists. Seems a bit dangerous. Probably should just hold the loops in your hands.

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ivan_smirnov June 19, 2011 at 1:22 pm

I don't know if I'd take the risk. If the butt kicks out you've had it.

If you use these saws on fallen timber you still need both hands, and are going to have difficulty bracing your material with your foot.

But hey, almost anything is better than using your fingernails and teeth.

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ivan_smirnov June 19, 2011 at 1:27 pm

Your word is good enough for me. After all, you have first hand experience. But it seems a little too risky for me…

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njoh November 10, 2011 at 11:34 pm

Perhaps he was speaking of the Darwin awards for taking oneself out of the gene pool?

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Shawn February 14, 2012 at 4:40 pm

Just watching the video made me nervous! I don't think I could make myself cut down a tree with the blade and tree pointing at me.

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gary March 8, 2012 at 6:04 pm

chopping tools can be noisy, i agree they are quicker but for stealth you may want this for backup.

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CMHN December 9, 2012 at 4:19 pm

I am wondering if it is possible to take the chain apart and flip one ling around so it cuts in the opposite direction. I was thinking the same way you are caine30, I like to make my own tools.

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