Fortifying Your Home: How To Guide for 2020


If a burglar, kidnapper, or home invasion robbing crew targeted your home, it would be good if your home were a hard target, like a castle for fortress of the ancient days, but the reasonableness of your security measures must take into account the likelihood and severity of the risks you might face. Let’s go over some ways to make your home more secure, focusing on hardware and structural changes, not skills or techniques to learn.

Fortifying Your Home: Things to Consider

Most people have already considered moderately-effective security improvements such as getting an alarm system, installing deadbolt locks on exterior doors, installing exterior lighting all around your home, trimming trees and shrubs around windows, and getting a dog.  Almost everybody reading this article will already own one or more “home defense” firearms.  These are all good steps, but so much more can be done.

For the purposes of this article, let us acknowledge that unless your home is built from the foundation up as a fortress, you cannot expect any security measures to stop a determined team of burglars who are willing to take some time and make noise to get inside. If they come when you are home, your security precautions can give you a warning, so that you can put your defensive plan into effect.   If you are not home, your alarm and other security measures could give cops or your neighbors time to respond.

Check out this detailed blueprint on how to prepare your home

First Objective: Know They’re Coming

In order to defend your home and/or quickly send other people to defend your home in your absence, the first thing you need to know is that an attack on your home is beginning. It would be desirable to see the arrival of the criminals on your property.  For this, you want windows or cameras looking out into your yard from every direction– the street, the sides, and the back yard.

Windows and cameras

Every side of your home should have windows from which you can see out. Upper floor windows make for safer viewing out and are less vulnerable to being entry points for intruders. Windows are also potential defensive positions for you and your family to try to drive off or repel the attackers. Virtually all security-sensitive businesses, government offices, and the homes of VIPs, have a camera surveillance system as part of the security plan. Today’s security cameras often come with infrared lights to work–with limited range–even in total darkness. We would all be safer if we had them for our homes. A peephole can be more useful than a window sometimes. All your exterior doors should have one-way peepholes in them, preferably with wide-angle lenses so you can see people standing to the side of the door.

Check out SurvivalCache’s recommended survelaince systems:

Last update on 2020-10-20 at 16:42 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Exterior lighting

Motion detector activated lighting is important, as are Onforu 50W LED Flood Light, 5500lm Bright LED Floodlight, IP66 Waterproof... that you can also turn on with a switch.  They should be positioned to shine away from your home, so that you can see out without getting any glare, and without the lights making you visible from the outside. If one side of your home has no windows, consider mounting a camera there.  Studies show that good lighting of your home and yard at night is one of the most cost-effective methods of home security to discourage burglars.

Check out SurvivalCache’s recommended floodlights:

Last update on 2020-10-20 at 16:42 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Perimeter motion detectors

Another way of knowing when somebody is coming onto your property is to use a perimeter warning circuit in your home alarm system. Most home alarm systems will accommodate this kind of addition, but most homeowners do not upgrade to this level of protection.  Perimeter detection can be either of two popular types: wide area motion detectors or beam-break detectors.  Both kinds are available with two kinds of underlying technologies: passive infrared light, or microwave signals.  

Related: Handling an Active Shooter Situation


Perimeter warning units mount outdoors around your home and yard, on posts, tree trunks, or the side of your home.  Wide area motion detectors will alert to a human or large animal’s movement in your yard, within a cone-shaped zone. Beam-break type detectors come in sets of two units, and one projects a beam toward the other, and the line between the sending unit and receiving/reflecting unit is the “beam” that is being monitored. If anything crosses that line, its body will temporarily block the beam of infra-red light, and the alarm is triggered.  The more common models that you might buy at a big box home improvement store use IR light, and they have a range of about 50-75 feet. The commercial models used by businesses are more expensive, but reach out to over 300 feet.

Perimeter alarm systems work best in conjunction with physical barriers around your property, such as fences, and a gate across your driveway to slow the approach of unwelcome vehicles. These barriers serve to give you more of a warning, as the criminals approach will be slower and noisier.

Check out SurvivalCache’s recommended perimeter systems:

Guardline Security system review
  • Our Favorite Home Security System
  • Configure up to 10 sensors with 1 receiver
  • Configure easily. No Wifi needed. No subscriptions
Check Price on
Guardline's Site
Check Price on

Second Objective: Block Their Entry

If criminals attack your home, you want them to find all your doors and windows closed and locked. They may try to break through one of these points of entry, probably a back door, where they cannot be seen from the street or may not be visible to the neighbors. You want your doors to resist being pried-open or kicked-in.  Here is how you can make your exterior doors stronger:


Strong exterior doors.  Not all doors are equal when it comes to construction. Some are thin molded plastic glued to a wooden frame. Others have steel sheet metal over a wooden frame.  Wood is weaker than fiberglass and undesirable in a high-security door.  Even solid wood doors, though strong across the middle, are weak where they are drilled-out for the lock components. Commercial fire-rated steel doors are stronger than ones made for residential applications, but they’re a lot more expensive. Choose a door that does not have windows in it, especially if that glass is located close enough to the lock mechanism that a criminal could smash the glass and reach through to the lock.

The weakest link of the door itself is where it has been hollowed-out for the lock sets– the door material here is pencil-thin and easy to rip away from the metal lock components.

High-security locks and door-mounting hardware.  A standard exterior door lock has a short bolt that only engages a tiny bit into a recess in the door frame. A deadbolt, mounted several inches above the standard doorknob, gives you a second bolt with a much longer range of motion; it will often reach over an inch into the door frame. Make sure the fit of the door to the door frame and strike plate is good, with a very small gap. Many locking doors have a lockset that is supposed to prevent easy opening with a stiff plastic like a driver’s license but in the real world sloppy installation or the loosening of the door frame over cause misalignment that will allow anybody to “jimmy” the lock.

To address the inherent weakness in doors and door frames due to flimsy and thin wood components that surround the lock parts themselves, buy door security hardware (such as Armor Concept’s Door Armor Max) that lets you screw steel reinforcing plates or “wrap-arounds” over the part of the door that has the lock mechanism. You can also reinforce your strike plate, which is the rectangular metal piece surrounding the hole in the door frame into which the bolt of the lock will enter.

In addition to bolting steel plates to your door around the lock mechanism, as reinforcements to the door itself, you should use bigger, longer screws in and around your door. Replace the short, skinny nails and screws that your door was installed with. Use deck screws, which come in lengths of over 3.5 inches.  

Check out SurvivalCache’s recommended products:

  • Our Favorite Door Jamb
  • Prevents kick-ins and prying attacks
  • Police tested
Check Price on
Armor Concepts site (15% OFF)
Check Price on
  • Our Favorite Deadbolt
  • Strong deadbolt with built-in alarm system
  • Connect to home security monitoring system
Check Price on

Augment your door’s locks with an external bar.  Remember, no matter how good your door’s locks are, the bolts can be cut with modern cordless power tools. Criminals have been known to use such battery-powered tools to cut chains and locks. Another way to prevent a door from being forced open is to use a locking bar that is propped against the door at a 45 degree angle. Some such bars require a slot or stud hole in your floor, but others use a rubber-coated end and friction to prop the bar in place.


Reinforce your windows.  As for windows, the most obvious problem is that a criminal can break the glass, reach in, unlock the window sash, open the window, and climb in.  To make your windows stronger, consider putting up another layer of barrier in addition to the glass panes. Some people use rigid panes or sheets of clear plastic, and this is good if the type of plastic is polycarbonate, such as the brand Lexan. Do not use cheap acrylic plastic, it is not particularly strong nor shatter-resistant. There are also “security film” window treatments on the market. They are tough but flexible wraps of clear (or tinted) plastic that apply to glass doors and windows just as one would apply tint film to car windows. This security film will hold the window together even when the glass underneath is broken. It is tough enough and energy-absorbing enough that it can’t easily be ripped away to create a big opening for an intruder to climb through.

However, a window’s sashes or frame can be smashed-through, just like a door. That’s why some people in high crime areas fortify their windows (and sometimes doors) with burglar bars. These bars cover the entire window opening with a cage or screen. They are much less attractive than clear plastic. Although they look “ghetto,” they are high security.  One risk that comes from covering your windows with burglar bars is that it will often prevent the window from opening.  You should consider whether you might need to use that window for ventilation or for an emergency escape, such as in case of a fire. Some burglar bar sets have a quick-release system, accessible only from the inside of the home.

Check out this detailed blueprint on how to prepare your home

Third Objective: Have Hard Cover in Your Home

If intruders made it through your doors and windows and get into your home, while you and your family are there, one or more of you may want to fight off the intruders, while others escape, either by leaving the home or locking themselves in a safe room.

Safe room.  A safe room is a place inside your home for you to stay out of sight and out of reach of intruders, even if that means the intruders can steal anything they want from the rest of your home. It should be a room that is very hard to break-into, and one that is equipped for you to comfortably stay there for a long time. The door to the safe room should be an exterior grade door, or a fire-rated door suitable for commercial construction. It should have good locks and lock-reinforcing hardware installed as described previously in this article. The door should have a one-way, wide-angle peephole.

If you were building or remodeling your home, I would suggest making the walls of one of the smaller rooms in your home (a guest bedroom, big bathroom, or a large walk-in closet) extra strong for future use as a safe room. For this room, you may want to put steel mesh screen across the studs before you enclose them with sheetrock (drywall). A good type of screen for this purpose is “remesh” made for reinforcing poured concrete driveways. You may want to have the studs placed at 8” center to center instead of the normal 16” spacing, to make it impossible for an intruder to rip through the flimsy sheetrock and step into that room by passing his body in between the 2×4 studs. Or you could use sheets of plywood to cover those walls first, and then use drywall.  

Check Out: Estwing Axe

The safe room should also have weapons inside it to deal with the intruders should they manage to break into that room. You should also have an axe and pry bar in that room so that you can break OUT of it, if necessary, if for some reason that strong door was blocked or its lock jammed so that you could not open it.


Consider what is “cover” inside your home. If you had to grab a gun and fight intruders, would it be to your advantage to position yourself behind bullet-resistant cover? Of course it would. Every tactical shooting course and every instructor on the topic of combat arms shows you how to make use of cover while engaging your adversary. Inside your home, think of what you have, or could that would serve as cover. Keep in mind that cover is not the same as concealment. Concealment just hides you from sight. Doors are concealment. Even the interior walls of your home only “conceal” you from the bad guys, but interior walls will not stop incoming bullets. Cover is defined as something that effectively blocks or deflects bullets.  

With your knowledge of the layout of your home, you should anticipate the likely point of entry for intruders, and you should choose a few defensive positions in your home.  Don’t count on the corners of walls, or doorways, as reliable cover. All popular handgun and rifle bullets, as well as buckshot or slugs from a shotgun, will go right through interior walls easily, with lethal velocity as they emerge on the other side.  The only parts of an interior wall that can stop or significantly slow down handgun bullets are the wooden wall studs– and there is only one stud per 16 inches of wall length in most walls. If the bullet hits any of the other 15 inches along that section of wall, it encounters only a couple layers of drywall. Bullets go through drywall like a knife through butter.

A bookcase whose shelves are filled with books and other paperwork can stop bullets. A refrigerator full of food and beverages will stop handgun bullets and buckshot from a shotgun, and some small, high velocity rifle bullets. The same applies to ovens, washers, and dryers– consider them “cover” as to most common handguns, but not for rifle rounds. Furniture is no good as cover. Wooden chairs and tables don’t usually stop even pistol bullets, and upholstered furniture like sofas and reclining chairs are only “concealment” if you duck behind them, not cover. Your bedroom dresser, with the drawers full of clothes, makes better cover than the mattress and box spring of your bed.


In times of peace and relative safety, certain security measures are more “worth it” than others. It all depends on the risks you and your home face, and how much peace of mind you would attain from having a fortified home with a good security system.

Because conditions in our society could change rapidly, it may not be unreasonable to beef up your home now, when you have easy access to all the hardware at the local shopping center. In times of trouble, the roads may be more hazardous for travel and the hardware and home supply stores could be closed or sold out of the products you need. It’s better to prepare now.

Check out this detailed blueprint on how to prepare your home

Joel Jefferson
Written by Joel Jefferson

Joel is one of the original founders of After college, he joined the USMC where he served as an (0302) Marine Infantry Officer. Joel is an avid outdoorsman and spends much of his free time in the mountains. Joel’s hobby is researching survival gear & weapons as well as prepping. Read his full interview here. Read more of Joel's articles.

9 thoughts on “Fortifying Your Home: How To Guide for 2020”

  1. Most important to NOT live in a DEMOCRAT controlled state / sanctuary city.
    Example: Chicago and Illinois in general. People are fleeing in record numbers year after year.
    Why tempt fate ?

  2. Good article, I liked the advice of keeping an axe or pry bar in your 'safe room' so you can break out of it if necessary, in fact, designing your 'safe room' with a interior door different from the main entrance to the room would make it much easier to break out especially if you had to do so in a hurry, such as the A-holes who broke in to rob and/or kill you may decide to burn your house down around you for 'revenge' since you made yourself a 'hard target' and 'ruined their day'! One very important thing you barely mentioned is a fence. I'm not talking a 3-foot decorative fence which gives fido something to piss on, but an 'enter-at-your-own-risk' type of fence. I like at least 6 foot (from the ground) chain-link fence reinforced with cattle panels which stiffens the chain-link considerable and a 18"-24" reinforced concrete skirt around the entire length of the fence including the gateways! Of course, a six foot privacy fence (no-see-thru type) is good but also helps outsiders to visually hide from you; security camera are fairly easy to destroy. Some coiled up barb wire around the top railing will make it more difficult to go over. Also, a fairly shallow ditch (about 24" deep & 36" wide) about one foot inside of the bottom of the fence skirt should be dug and lined with bricks or rocks (so it doesn't collapse) so if a heavy vehicle is used to penetrate the fence it may well get stuck in the ditch after breaching or running over the fence, assuming it doesn't get high-centered on the concrete skirt, making them a stationary target for counter-fire from your house (or castle). This ditch should be planted with unfriendly plants such as cactus, yucca, roses, even poison oak, sumac or ivy to make intruders on foot very unwelcome. Your fence should be at least 150 or more feet from your house, making incoming pistol and shotgun fire less effective. Also, the distance from fence to house should be clear of all cover and good concealment, unless you wish to leave some obvious cover as a means to lure attackers to that place which can be boobytrapped with broken glass, rusty nails, etc., or made to either appear to be solid cover (paper mache boulder, for example) or a structure that can be collapsed or knocked over at your command (or pull cord), making them an easy target! A homemade fire bomb is an cheap, easy, effective way to cause mayhem and destruction on most structures so make your house (especially the exterior) as fire resistant as possible! Without a way to stop a vehicle, one could easily be used to crash thru weak spots in your exterior walls such as large garage doors! GLAHP!

    • Roger, I didn't talk much about fences because I felt that most homeowners who are serious about security had already considered them. But some things in your post are really good ideas, and IF a homeowner was willing to spend the money and do the labor, having the bottom of the fence attached to a raised concrete fence "skirt" would aid in preventing a vehicle from just running it over, but without making the fence too ridiculous-looking for a residential neighborhood. I don't think anybody is interested in having barbed wire around their home. (Or guard towers with searchlights, dogs running between an inner fence and the big, tough outer fence, and other features that would make your yard look like the federal penetentiary.

  3. Hard to say exactly, but dont look like that home everyone wants to get into. Dont have all the flashy stuff and to some degree a look of someone who fights back is a truck with NRA sticker and better than the BMW.

  4. just a slight mistake is that there is 2 inches of wood to every 16 inch of wall. im like 90% sure im no contractor so if you are then please educate me. its no like that extra inch will save you.

  5. wolf112wolf, it's true that a "two by four" stud has a nominal dimension of 2" thickness as a rough-cut board at the sawmill, but it's really 1.5" after it's finished and dried and sold to the public.

    Out of those 1.5 inches, a bullet would have to hit near the middle to stay in the board and not pop out the side. So I figure the "middle inch" section of each 2 x 4 wall stud is the only part of a wall that will probably stop pistol bullets or a buckshot pellet.

    Consider also that, on any normal home wall, on each side of the stud there are 15.25" of air space before the next stud's wood is under the drywall. So that's a 30 1/2 inch zone in which there is only a single stud, 1.5" wide, that serves as cover.

  6. Gone are the days when the only solution for home safety was to use padlocks. Modern door locks are much better than padlocks because they are digitally controlled, and the thief should be well qualified to be able to know locksmith tricks.


Leave a Comment